Walking Tour of Stuttgart

Aided by a map and five hours of free time, I went on a self-guided walking tour on my last day in Stuttgart. My intent was to expand my experience to other neighborhoods beyond the center of the city. 

About half a kilometer uphill from my hotel is Karlshohe Hill, a ridge that runs across the south and western parts of the city. The hill is a picturesque park with winding trails, plenty of benches and a vista overlooking the center city. Grape vines were grown along the slopes during the middle ages until the end of the 19^th Century; they have been reintroduced on some of the terraces.

View from the Milch Bar

I stopped at the Milch Bar on the Terrace which was designed for a federal garden show in 1961. I had a cappuccino and then set off to see the majestic Athena Fountain, built by Karl Donndorf in 1911.

Athena

I wound through the park, getting a little lost until I found the Hasenbergsteige, a steep ancient road which eventually leads to the Northern Black Forest. The steep road turns into a footpath, the Blauer Weg (Blue Path) that continues up the south side of Hasenberg Hill. Along the path are ancient stone walls with steps and narrow gates every so often leading up a terrace to residences. Looking down the hill, I had breathtaking views of Heslach Valley.

Back gate on the Blau Weg

The trail leads to Mount Birkenkopf, a 511 meter hill, World War II memorial and the highest point in the area. Between 1950 and 1955, 1,750,000 cubic meters of rubble from World War II were deposited on the hill, which locals call Monte Scherbelino (Mount Shards). From the top of the hill, there are panoramic views of Stuttgart and the country.

Mount Birkenkopf made me realize the potential to alter landscapes with rubble as structures are deconstructed and demolished. Maybe we could construct a foreclosure memorial hill overlooking Lake Erie instead of landfills choked with once vibrant neighborhoods. 

I returned via the Blauer Weg, but then took an alternate route back to Hasenbergsteige. I descended a narrow, steep staircase and path instead of the less steep, winding trail. I got lost on the way back to the hotel and accidently explored Bobblingerstrasse, a colorful and less ostentatious neighborhood than the one along the Hasenberg. 

Looking up the steps towards the Blau Weg